Screws and base anchors fail years before the aluminum does — that’s normal for a Florida cage, not a sign it was built wrong. We pull the rusted ones, upsize where a hole has worn open, and refasten in stainless.
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A cage held together with rusted-through screws will rattle, leak at the fastener holes, and eventually let a panel come loose entirely. It’s inexpensive to fix and easy to put off — which is exactly why it’s overdue on most cages we see.
Every screw holding mesh and trim in place gets pulled and replaced in stainless. If a hole has worn oversized from years of a loose screw working in it, we upsize the fastener rather than driving a new one into a hole that’s already stripped.
Get a QuoteThe anchors tying the frame’s base plates into the concrete deck take the most abuse — standing water and pool chemicals corrode them first. We drive new anchors into sound concrete rather than reusing a hole that’s crumbled.
Get a QuoteIf it’s been more than a decade, we go panel by panel rather than chasing individual squeaks — it’s the same crew and access either way, and it’s the cheapest insurance against a panel letting go in a storm.
Get a QuoteRusted fasteners are often found alongside frame issues — see aluminum frame repair and pool cage restoration. If screen has torn from the movement, see screen panel replacement.
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Yes, especially on cages built before stainless became standard, and on panels closest to the pool itself where chemicals are in the air. It’s routine maintenance, not a sign of bad original work.
Either — we’ll look at what you’ve got. A handful of rusted screws in one section is a small job. If most of the fasteners are the same age and starting to go, doing them all at once while access is already open is usually the better value.
Those get checked too. A base anchor pulling loose from the concrete is a bigger problem than a rusted panel screw, since it’s what keeps the whole post from shifting — we’ll flag it separately if that’s what’s going on.
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